The Tenth Month—Sené/June

Heavy rain, fog, storms. Fishing season. Children taught to swim before rivers turn dangerous. Intensive ploughing, seeding by broadcasting barley, teff, wheat. Garden crops seeded and fenced.—The Wife’s Tale

I turned 31 and learned to enjoy a very unbirthday by resting all day (because I had giardia, see previous post) and not telling anyone it was my birthday. It was an introspective day and I secretly liked not telling anyone it was my birthday. 

Samay has suddenly returned which makes me happy. 

It feels like I know everyone in Kela and I can’t go anywhere without stopping to greet someone. 

I went to the Apostle church today. We knelt over the benches praying as the rain poured, pelting the tin roof and enveloping the church in white mist—it’s a simple mud building with windows covered with white rice bags, the floor is also covered in white rice bags. The kids were practicing their songs for Sunday service—I haven’t been around live singing in so long—an unexpectedly beautiful afternoon. Afterwords I walked home through the mud and washed my feet.

Watched the funeral procession (on TV at school) for the two generals who were killed in an attempted coup. It was very somber—I can still hear the slow, sad tune of the brass band. I was struck by the fact that the men—including Prime Minister Dr. Abiy and many military officials—were openly weeping.

I went to church again. I’m fascinated by the youth interest in it and their amazing confidence and joy in singing—I love watching and trying to sing along. Meklit is so sweet—she took me to someone’s house yesterday for a singing/bible study and made sure I ate since I didn’t have lunch. We walked in the mud, I took off my shoes because it was so thick and slippery, it was fun to squish around in the mud. There was a white cat with one blue eye and one green eye. 

The leader of the church is blind in one eye. 

I have been in Ethiopia for one year (!) It’s surreal to realize how quickly a year has gone by and how much has happened. Recently, I feel like there’s been a shift where I feel more at ease with everything—drinking buna, celebrating the end of the school year with fellow teachers, going to the market, being alone but not disconnected. In the last year my perspective has changed—relating to small day to day things and larger concepts. I’ve realized a lot about myself, learned to let things go—especially what I can’t control. I’ve adapted to a culture and way of life so vastly different from my own—which at times seemed impossible. Facing year one felt daunting, but here I am relatively unscathed and likely (hopefully) so much the better for it. Here’s to year two! 

Lili Ashman