First Dispatch

It's been a wild first month here in Ethiopia! Here's a few vignettes from my journal on what I've been observing and reflecting on.

Ethiopia Arrival, June 17, 2018
Reminds me of Cuba (Ladas) and Cairo (concrete buildings being constructed).
Serene sensation of watching coffee being roasted—so aromatic the way the smoke billowed catching the light—sparks of beans and charcoal—frank incense. 

June 19, 2018
When I first arrived I could say bunna (coffee) and amasegenalo (thank you).
Juxtaposition of Middle East, Africa, and Asia all meeting in Ethiopia

June 20, 2018
Walking through Addis in the rain, my pants damp and sandal clad feet drenched. An Ethiopian woman looked down at my feet and smiling, held out her umbrella over me as we walked quietly several blocks till she stopped and asked where I was going. She looked surprised as I still had a long way to be walking in the rain and we parted wats as she waved down a taxi. Amasegenalu. 
Woke up at 4am to the sounds of a thunderstorm. Peacefully I lay awake listening to the rain thrumming outside. An hour later the call to prayer rose over the rain. A beautiful moment.

June 24, 2018
Oh, Bu’i!
There are donkeys everywhere. I love them so much. They remind me of Estrella and I miss her. Everything feels so surreal. The contradiction of feeling comfortable and totally uncomfortable all at once, while learning to push comfort limits. Feeling totally in love so quickly despite a language barrier. I met my host family and used up all my “ishis” (OK) amaseganalus, and dena nish (how are you?) My host father is a priest who wears a yellow leather jacket.

The Peace Corps says “go anywhere, do anything.” I’d add “get there anyway possible.” A slow slung telephone line was too low for the bus with our luggage strapped on top so the men got off and held it up as the bus slowly inched under. I need to learn the Ethiopian term for Resolvemos. 

June 27, 2018
Every day there is something new and surprising which is so wonderful—peeling avocados with my host sister and laughing about it. 

June 28, 2018
Went to orthodox church—a surprisingly serene and beautiful experience—women in white scarves/prayer shawls wrapped around their bodies filed in quietly and took a seat in the grass. 

June 29, 2018
Women playing checkers with a board drawn on cardboard and red and yellow bottle caps. The kids play a games where they throw their shoes towards a line of bottle caps—I haven’t quite figured out the rules. 
Women who always say Salam to me and are so excited when I say it back. 
Drinking tea with “Adam’s leaf an herb that adds a slightly bitter flavor to the almost too sweet tea. 

June 30, 2018
There are little finch-like birds that have bright red and blue underbellies and tails. They remind me of the feathery bird Christmas ornaments we put on our tree. There’s also an enormous black bird that looks like a cross between a cormorant and a toucan, it’s scary. 

July 1, 2018
One way I’ve noticed the Ethiopians demonstrate their generosity is that they full cups to the very brim when serving you tea or coffee.

July 2, 2018
Starting to feel like I’m adapting and amazed by how quickly I’ve made adjustments to living with regular power outages, no running water, or indoor plumbing, 

July 5, 2018
There was a hail storm, my host siblings were shrieking with excitement as they gathered the hail balls and ate them.

July 12, 2018
The way the buses to Butajira honk like a short, sharp, train whistle as they roar through Bu’i at night.

Spending time in the kitchen—a room that could be from another centures, watching my host mom make injera.

Lili Ashman